Temples of Bishnupur, Bankura, West Bengal, India

India has a rich history of temples, that were built over decades in the past, rebuilt and restored after devastation by Persian, Afghan and Moghul invaders who took special pleasures in destroying medieval Indian Hindu temples. That had happened in the northern, western and central India.

But in far away Bengal, the Rajput kings, migrating from Rajasthan, built temples that stood the test of time and miraculously escaped the attacks. These temples had been built with various architectures and with special construction tiles, Terra-cotta, a type of fired clay, typically of a brownish-red color and unglazed, used as an ornamental building material and in modelling. This became unique to Bengal, specially Bishnupur.

Some of these temples are presented here:

Ras Mancha – A mix of Egyptian pyramid architecture, Bengali style roof called Atchala/Charchala etc. and Moghul type pillar structures supporting the corridors. The base is made of Laterite, a residual product of rock decay that is red in color and has a high content in the oxides of iron and hydroxide of aluminum and is very good in providing strength against subsoil water buoyancy, ultimately restricting displacements and structural damage at superstructure.

This is the oldest brick structure, built by king Bir Hambir in 1600 CE. The deity used to be Radha-Krishna, worshipped during Rash festival. Presently there is no deity here.

Ras Mancha

Ras Mancha

Ras Mancha back yard

Madan Mohan Temple is another important temple in Bishnupur built by Malla king Durjan Singha in 1695 CE. The temple has been built over an area of 149 sq m.with a height of 10.7 m. A tower surmounted on the Bengal style Chala roof. This is an “Ekrotno” temple built on laterite base.

Madan Mohan

Madan Mohan

Lalji Temple has been built by Malla king Bir Singha in 1658 CE, with tower and built on a raised square shape laterite platform. This is also an “Ekrotno” temple and has been devoted to Radha-Krishna and is similar to that of Bengali architecture with ornamental decorations. In front of the main temple, there are two chariots one of Lord Lalji and the other of lord Raghunath. This temple is also built on a laterite base.

Lalji

Lalji

Lalji Backyard

Panchna Ratna Temple, also known as Shyam Rai Temple was built by King Raghunath Singha in 1643 CE. It stands on a low square plinth made of laterite and consists of a pathway with a porch opened by three arches on the four sides of the temple. The central tower is octagonal, while the rest four are square. The walls are richly decorated with terracotta carvings featuring aspects of Lord Krishna’s life.

Pancha Ratna

Pancha Ratna

Pancha Ratna – False door

Jod Bangla Temple also known as Keshto Ray (Krishna) & Gauranga Tenple was built by King Raghunath Singha Dev II in 1655 CE. The ornate terracotta carvings are set off by the roof in the classic chala style of Bengal architecture. It stands on a low square plinth made of laterite. The walls have ornate terracotta carvings.

Jod Bangla

Jod Bangla

Nandalal Temple consists of a square ground plan on laterite and a single tower resting on a curved roof, called Chala in Bengal. Very little motif work can be seen on the lower part of the temple. It is known to have been built in the 17th century. But no king’s name is associated with this temple.

Nandalal

Nandalal

A complex of three temples known as the Jod Mandir. These temples were built by Malla King Krishna Singh in 1726.

Jod Mandir

Jod Mandir

The Temples described here mostly consisted special architectural design and terracotta ornamentation. There are a few other temples that have not been covered in this post.

Bye for now, friends.

Chinatown, Singapore

Visit to Singapore is never complete unless the Chinatown of Singapore is visited. Its in the old part of the town with old houses and temples. The houses have since been renovated, added with fresh paints and with all its temples, shops, food stalls and restaurants, Chinatown is a wonderful place to visit.

There are many ways to reach Chinatown from any place in Singapore. There are buses and metros (MRT) that take you to Chinatown. Its a junction station or an interchange as it is called in Singapore. The North-East (NE) line or the Purple Line starting from the Harbour Front and going to Punggol passes through Chinatown (NE4). Also, the very long Down town line or Blue line starting from Bukit Panjang and going to Expo passes through Chinatown (DT14). You may also find buses going through Chinatown. If you want to travel in more comfort, you can get taxis. There are various taxi services running in Singapore.

The entry to the Chinatown is from the Pagoda Street if one comes by the MRT. One lands straight into the Food Street and the alluring smells of food will immediately grasp one’s attention.  The Food street has food stalls and restaurants of various types in both sides of the street as well as in the middle. No vehicles of any type is allowed in this street and one’s good old legs are the best transport here.

The sidewalk restaurants show a laid back life that most of the tourists would come here for. One can have food and drinks in leisure. The types of food that mainly do the rounds here are authentic Chinese dishes from various parts of china. The preparations are made to suit the palate of almost all the tourists coming from across the world. The seating area here is mostly common, that is, one can order anywhere and have one’s food seating anywhere. However, no outside food is not allowed here for consumption.

A little down the road and into the narrow cross lanes one will find beautiful wall arts, made by unnamed artists.

Further away one would find the souvenir shops where various articles of collection are sold. However, the shops also include genuine sellers of branded perfumes, cameras, mobile telephone equipment and the like.

While entering into the Chinatown from the Southern side, one can see renovated and painted houses decorated with lights to match the grandeur of the Chinatown.

The city state of Singapore maintains its heritage with full respect to all the communities living here in peace. The Chinese Heritage Center, located at the center of Chinatown is a place worth visiting. One would find Sri Mariamman Hindu temple, Buddha Tooth relic temple, Masjid Jamae and a few churches around.

The Temples in this area can always be seen brimming with followers and tourists showing how the city state of Singapore maintains its tradition of respect and peaceful living.

The views of the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, one from the side and one from the front.

I have visited Singapore in the month of November as well as in the month of May. I have seen, whatever be the season, the Chinatown always welcomes you with its fun, food, architectural beauty and above all, the people. The people here make all the difference.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Immortals who gave away everything – The Tale of Bhagat Singh and his friends

Bhagat Singh, Sukhdev Thapar, Shivaram Hari Rajguru and Batukeshwar Dutta

We have come across some articles and posts that indicate the Valentine’s Day, the 14th of February is the day when the revolutionaries Bhagat Singh, Sukhdev and Rajguru were executed by hanging by the British. But the historical facts are otherwise.

When the British Government implemented Defence of India act 1915 to suppress freedom struggle through the recommendations of the act, it gave the British Police a free hand to carry out arrests without any permissions. In order to protest against this act, Bhagat Singh and his friends carried out a plan to use low intensity bomb inside the assembly hall and at the same time ensure that there are no deaths. Immediately after the bombing, Bhagat Singh and his friends voluntarily surrendered and taken to trial. They were charged with attempt to murder and sentenced to 14 years life in 1929.

 

Shown above are the photographs of Bhagat Singh, Shivaram Hai Rajguru, Sukhdev Thapar and Batukeshwar Dutta

Further investigation by the Police led to discovery of other members, some of whom turned into informants and helped police to connect Bhagat Singh with an alleged murder of a British Officer. Singh was again arrested and sent to another jail where he faced discrimination between British & Indian prisoners and that led to his protest in the form of hunger strike against the discrimination.

In the meantime, the ongoing investigation of framing Bhagat Singh for the alleged murder of a British Officer in the past was hastened by the Viceroy, Irwin in 1930. Bhagat Singh, Rajguru & Sukhdev were sentenced to death and the execution date was fixed to the 24th March 1931. The Congress and Gandhi made some attempts to save the lives but went in vain. Gandhi finally came to an agreement in the Gandhi-Irwin pact which gave the British the go-ahead with the execution of Bhagat Singh and his friends.

The Death Warrant

A powerful and well-organized movement was started to get the sentences commuted.  Though the public may not be aware of it, Mahatma Gandhi made a sincere attempt to save them from gallows. Young men and women took a leading part in organizing demonstrations to impress upon the Government that the hangings would have very bad effect on the people of India. Never in the history of British India had there been such a widespread and genuine demand for the commutation of the sentences. Even in England the movement was gaining ground. It was stated that even the Viceroy had felt the influence of the public opinion in this matter.  This was exactly as Bhagat Singh desired.

Then the truce, which was regarded by the young party as nothing but surrender, came in. The Congress leaders suddenly suspended the mass movement. The British Government heaved a sigh of relief, and then calmly carried out the death sentences. Yes, this was exactly as Bhagat Singh had desired.

On the 17th of March, a telegram was sent to Home Department, rescheduling the execution date to 23rd March. Bhagat Singh and his friends were hanged to death at 7.30pm on the 23rd of March 1931 at Lahore. Bhagat Singh and his friends who were hanged were only 22/23 years old at the time of their execution.

Report in The Tribune

The Death Certificate

Their another revolutionary partner, Batukeshwar Dutt, was awarded a life imprisonment and was sent to the Cellular Jail, Andaman. Independent India did not accord him any recognition, and he spent his remaining life in poverty away from political limelight. Batukeshwar Dutta outlived all his comrades and died on 20 July 1965 in the AIIMS in Delhi after a long illness. Its a pity that most of us Indians do not even know his name, who was a very close associate of Bhagat Singh.

Every year, the 23rd of March is observed as Martyrs’ Day in honor of Bhagat Singh, Rajguru & Sukhdev. Let us salute our martyrs for giving up their lives during the freedom struggle so that the subsequent generations could live in peace & prosperity.

Bhagat Sing wrote a letter to Batukeshwar Dutta from the confines of the Central Jail, Lahore. The transcript reads as follows:

——————————————————–

Dear Brother

The judgment has been delivered. I am condemned to death. In these cells, besides myself, there are many prisoner who are waiting to be hanged. The only prayer of these people is that somehow or other they must escape the noose. Perhaps I am the only man amongst them who is anxiously waiting for the day when I will be fortunate enough to embrace the gallows for my ideals. I will climb the gallows gladly and show to the world as to how bravely the revolutionaries can sacrifice themselves for the cause of the nation.

I am condemned to death, but you are sentenced to transportation for life. You will live and , while living, you will have to show t the world that the revolutionaries not only die for their ideals but can face every calamity. Death should not be a means to escape the worldly difficulties. Those revolutionaries who have by chance escaped the gallows should live and how to the world that they can not only embrace gallows for the ideal but also bear the worst type of tortures in the dark dingy prison cells

Jai Hind

——————————————————–

Let us not belittle the supreme sacrifice of these brave hearts equating their day of sacrifice with Valentine’s Day. The least we can do is to keep their day of sacrifice away from such controversies, they deserve that much. How many of us pay our respects to them on the Martyrs’ Day, the 23rd of March? Do we, really?

Even if we can’t shed a drop of tear, let us, at least, bow our heads in respect to them on that day and remember their supreme sacrifice for us. The only thing they wanted is that we will live as independent human beings in an independent country.

I will come back with more such tales of selfless sacrifice of the Indian freedom fighters, some of which our history do not remember.

Jai Hind!

[Thanks for the references – Guruprasad’s Portal, Wikipedia and Google]

Kolkata International Book Fair 2016

The 40th Kolkata International Book Fair was arranged during January 25, 2016 to February 7, 2016 at the Milan Mela ground behind the ITC Sonar Bangla off the Eastern Metropolitan By Pass. This years theme was the State of Bolivia, a country which has gone through years of struggle and the country that has made the revolutionary Ernesto Che Guevara famous who lost his life trying to take forward the struggle for equality.

Though France was also expected to be one of the main participants, it backed out in view of incomplete preparation. However, that didn’t deter a number of visitors from France and French speaking countries like Ivory Coast coming here. There was full participation from many countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam etc.

Excepting for the day of inauguration, the fair was open from 12:00 noon till 8:00 PM and saw millions of visitors. People streamed in from all parts of the city, the places around the city, the other states and so on. Being at a place near the Science City, there were visitors who clubbed their visit with a visit to the Science City.

The cultural capital of India, Kolkata waits for such events. One can see people of all ages, young, middle aged and old moving around with the same enthusiasm throughout the fair. And as the people of this state, specially the city, is known for its ADDA, the gossip about anything under the sky, one can see various ADDA groups having a field day. Interestingly, not all the groups have the people of same age bracket, it might be quite a mixed type.

We started from Lake Gardens at around 10:00 AM and reached the Science City in half an hour flat. The organizers, along with the Kolkata Police have done a commendable job by putting barricades to guide the visitors of the book fair. Sign posts and arrow markings were visible every where so that a first time visitor would also reach without asking for directions.

 

The fair was very well laid out. Large publishing houses were allotted large pavilions with very adequate lighting and wide corridors for movement. There were adequate number of reasonably clean toilets and wash rooms.

The state of West Bengal had its own pavilion along with statues and constructions depicting the development that is taking palce here.

Once can see famous publishing houses of India and also the state had put up very good collections of famous and upcoming writers.

The stalls from Bangladesh were seen in the fair selling books of famous Bangladeshi writers, who are quite popular in this side of the borders. In fact, no literary festival can be expected to be complete unless a participation from the other side of the border is ensured. This is true not only for literary festivals, its true for other festivals also, be it music, be it drama and so on. This was also visible during the literary meet that took place in the book fair during February 4, 2016 to February 6, 2016. We missed this meet because of preoccupation. We hope we will not miss it next year.

No fair is complete without its share of food stalls for the food loving visit0rs here. Fast foods, kebabs, fries along with traditional savories were seen in abundance. The visitors

were seen crowding around snacks and ice-cream kiosks to have a bit of charge up as most of them had come for a long stay, preferably till the close.

Our visit to fair was really fruitful. We bought a number of books. I could lay my hands on “The First World War” by A.J.P. Taylor. This was first published in 1963. I had bought this book earlier in 1972, but lost it in transit somewhere in 1980’s. I also got “A Farewell to Arms” by Hemingway (Rupa Publications) which I had also lost in transit around the same time. Getting hold of these books really made my day.

I could also purchase a number of Bengali books by my favorite writers which are difficult to get under one roof.

It was a worthwhile experience. I will wait for another year….another fair. Till that time……..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

THE BHOWANIPORE CEMETERY, KOLKATA

VISIT TO THE BHOWANIPORE CEMETERY, KOLKATA

It was Sunday, the 1st of November 2015. I was relaxing after a hectic week that involves travelling about 40 kms back & forth and about 8 hours in the office. I got a call from My friend Subhadip Mukherjee, an avid photographer and a very good blogger. He just told me to tag along. Today our aim is to cover the two cemeteries, one at Bhowanipur and the other at Kidderpur.

Looking at the sky and the clouds, we decided to take a dig at Bhowanipur which was nearer. This cemetery is about a  kilometer from the southern end of the Calcutta Maidan and is enclosed by a high perimeter wall. The war graves are at the rear end of the civilian cemetery, about 100 meters from the main entrance of the cemetery. The cemetery is at no 15 Debendra Lal Khan Road,, Kolkata 700027.

We met in front of the command Hospital at Alipore and proceeded in Subhadip’s vehicle.It was a short trip around the National Library. The area doesn’t have much of a crowd except for cars passing by. The war cemetery is at the South-West corner of the civilian cemetery. Because of the “All Saints’ Day” festival, one can see people coming into the cemetery with flowers and candles. Flowers are sprinkled, headstones or headboards are freshly painted, candles are lit and silent prayers are made so that the dead and buried can rest in peace till the judgement day. It is said that God will judge each person according to their sins, allowing only those deemed worthy to remain with him in heaven. Every person, including every single person who has ever lived and died, will be rejoined with his/her physical body. It is this physical body that goes to heaven, if worthy. The rest would go to a literal “Hell” or a figurative “Hell on Earth”.

Walking along the pathway, we reached the War cemetery. The war cemetery lies in a fenced enclosure and is maintained by the Common Wealth War Graves Commission, which maintains war cemeteries in about 146 countries in the world. This cemetery had about 95 First World burials and about 617 Second World War burials.

The War Graveyards of Bhowanipur Cemetery has an area of approx 1.5 acres of land with grave plots of 200 meters. It is  an old European Military Cemetery that has some burials dating back to late 1800’s. The headstones of the WW-1 are 1” thick and those of the WW-2 are 3” thick. The maintenance of the graveyards is taken care of by the Ministry of Defense, Government of India in collaboration with the CWGC.The CWGC maintains 1 cemetery each in Kolkata, Ranchi, Delhi, Guwahati, Digbuoy, Kohima, Manipur and few grounds in Chennai and Imphal. The entire task is managed by 2 managers – one from Imphal, who takes care of the North East and the other from Delhi, who takes care of the remaining.

While we were moving along, taking an occasional snap to get a feel of the place, we could feel the history coming alive. Here we have some young soldier from the Scottish highlands lying buried thousands of miles away in India.

It is understood that the dead in the battle were cremated in the battlefield and the ashes were brought in urns and buried here. Many of the buried were too young to die. Take the case of Corporal HL Barter, aged 26, died in the WW-1, or take the case of 2nd Lieutenant Robin N Foster, aged 21, died in WW-2, whose ashes are buried thousands of miles away in India.

Most of the dead and buried were young men drafted into the army to fight either the Austro-Hungarian Empire & Germany combined Axis forces in WW-1 or to fight the Germany-Italy-Japan Axis in WW-2.

The graves have been marked with head stones depicting the brigade, place of posting or the category.

The graves have been laid out in lines, the way they stand when they are alive and active. The ground is well manicured and maintained clean. One can see a lot of workmen busy in cleaning or mowing the lawns or making fresh masonry work for laying out the head stones properly again.

We had been walking for quite some time now. While walking, we were bending down and watching the headstones for variations. The decorations made in headstones probably matched with the decorations that were made in their regulation dress or stationary or in their brigade flags.

It is said that the military in some countries have no religion. We know about the Indian Military. No religions exist there. The Hindus, Muslims, Sikhs, Christians mostly have a common prayer hall where everyone prays for the well being of the others.

This was once again proven today. It may have been done in the last century, but it exists as a truth that will never die. We have seen two Hindu burials from India and one Muslim burial from Africa with full honors.

With these, we concluded our visit to the war cemetery part.

I have completed by first blog after a lot of encouragement from my friend Subhadip. I would like to express my sincere gratitude to him.

I wish to come back to you all again with another story, another day. Till then….!!